Tour 2008 (Agra-Delhi-Jaipur-Amritsar)

DAY 2 - Oct 2, 2008, THURSDAY

A full day in train is bound to make anyone crazy, particularly in Andhra where the landscape doesn't change, even after running for hundreds of kilometers. The ever playful children and the ever snoring Billu Moti helped to avert monotony. The computerised reservation software of Indian railways has indeed improved so much that whenever a berth is vacated, another passenger soon occupied the seat. Another night in train.

DAY 3 - Oct 3, 2008, FRIDAY

As the train arrived at Agra one hour late, all of us were eager to get out of it at the earliest. The hot climate had us running to fetch water as soon as we set foot on the platform. Our accommodation was in the railway retiring rooms, so no journey was required. Meagre facilities were what was offered, but considering the paltry sum as rent, nothing better could be hoped for. After some refreshment, we ventured out and hailed two Maruti Omnis which must have been at least 25 years old. As the adage goes, all its parts except the horn made terrible sound. After a sumptuous lunch from a wayside restaurant named Taj Durbar, we headed straight for Agra Fort.

The red standstone monument still stands majestically in elegant style. Very near to the entrance, we had the moment we knew would cherish - the first glimpse of the Taj! On our right, shining above the line of trees stood the top part of the central dome glistening in the afternoon sunlight with the pearly splendour of white marble. We walked through the Diwan-e-Am, Diwan-e-Khas, Jahangiri Mahal, Jahangir's Chain of Justice, Shah Jahan's tower where he was imprisoned and where he passed each sick day while sadly looking at the mausoleum of his beloved wife who departed him almost 25 years before in 1631. At about 3'o clock we came out and headed for Fatehpur Sikri which is about 30 km away on the west.

Our Maruti Omnis soon proved to be our undoing. After running for about 5 km, one tyre was flat. Spare tyre was soon replaced and that also went flat after a few km. Now, there was no spare and our driver went in search for a tyre shop. An agonizing wait by the road side when everyone else was seen to be going to Sikri as if to reach there before closing time. After repairing the tyre we resumed journey, but as it was very near to Sikri, it again failed. Our second vehicle soon offloaded the people there and came back to take us. It was almost 5 pm when we at last reached the palace. We hired a guide for Rs. 250, which was way too high! His comments and opinions were entirely off the mark and was verging on the idiotic. We visited the open areas of Sikri, saw the Buland Darwaza and other places of interest. It was already dark when we were done. An uneventful journey back to Agra completed the day's itinerary. On the way, we reserved bus tickets for Jaipur at noon the next day. Stay at the railway station proved to be an ordeal because of the intense heat, mosquitoes and the noise of trains coming and going.

DAY 4 - Oct 4, 2008, SATURDAY

Taj Mahal was the last item of attraction in Agra. We reached there early and was spell bound by its timeless beauty and regal eminence transcending centuries of negligence and looting. Tagore was stating only the truth when he likened it to a tear drop on the cheeks of time. Video cameras are not permitted inside and must be kept in lockers at the entrance. After customary photoshoots, we visited the tomb and was impressed by its grandeur and symmetry. The only thing which is asymmetric is the tomb of Shah Jahan which was placed at the spot 25 years after the structure was built.

It was time for our bus to Jaipur. After a quick lunch and vacating our rooms at the station, it threaded its long way through the desert-like landscape. Lot of cold water and way side refreshments kept us energetic. By about 4 pm, we reached Jaipur. A hotel was quickly found and did some shopping in the Maharani Market. A very good dinner at a roadside restaurant completed the day.

DAY 5 - Oct 5, 2008, SUNDAY

Today, we decided to take a round of Jaipur city as we have to leave for Delhi by the 4.30 pm train. An unusual vehicle was located to carry all the fourteen of us. Outside Jaipur, I haven't seen such a contraption and a rate was fixed after much bargaining. We went straight to Rani Ka Bagh, which was claimed to be an enchanting garden constructed under the tutelage of the Sisodia queen. On the way, we drove through the pink coloured streets of Jaipur and fully appreciated why it is called the Pink City. However, the colour seemed to be dull and not uplifting. Hawa Mahal was standing on the wayside as a silent reminder of the hyped up description of this city. While nearing Jantar Mantar, we decided to take a detour and see the astronomical paraphernalia of the Rajputs. The concrete constructions are neatly arranged, but in the absence of a knowledgable guide, the time was simply wasted.

The greatest disappointment was just waiting in store for us till we reached Maharani Ka Bagh. We virtually cried at the mediocrity of the place! Not even a single decent flower was seen in this much hyped garden. The place doesn't even deserve to be called a garden! If any of you plan to go there to see the lovely garden, it'd be better to save your time and money. On the wayback, we saw Jal Mahal, which is a royal construction half submerged in a lake. Not much impressive, though. Our tour operators tried their best to take us to some of their pre-arranged shops and exhibition stalls. They also said that Amber Palace is closed for visitors as Durga Puja was nearing. We had no option than to believe them. After a good lunch, we headed for our hotel to vacate it as the Delhi train would be leaving at 4.30 pm.

This journey proved how little we knew North India. As the journey was only about 5 hours, we had opted for sleeper class. The reservation was made two months before, so we were confident about a comfortable journey. As soon as we boarded the train, the ticket examiner came and inspected the tickets. Soon after, he left and not a trace was seen of him. People came in the hundreds inside the coach and it was clear that they would not be respecting reserved tickets! A hell of a journey took us to Delhi by about 10 pm. We availed a decent hotel and slept the night.